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thegnome

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Posts: 17
Reply with quote  #76 

Yes, the bed roll lights.  I think it'll look a lot better than having to mount the brake lights somewhere externally on the frame.  Going to look good. 

hipowernut

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Posts: 36
Reply with quote  #77 
I looked at those and am a little concerned about their performance.  Here is a review from a customer -

UPDATE March 2006:   As much as I love the look and added safety feature of these bed roll tail lights, I would NOT recommend them to anyone.   I've had nothing but headaches with this company's product.   I had to replace the left tail-light two times in the first three months because, during mild rainfalls, the lights were filling up with water.   A year later I had further problems with them only partially lighting and the company just ignored any of my requests for help.   Today I checked them and found both tail-lights half burned out -- there is no way to replace bulbs on these -- and the red lense on the right tail light had fallen out.   That was the last straw for me ... I've removed this feature from my truck entirely and, instead, I now have
LED Tail Lights installed into my standard housings.


This project has proved to be the most frustrating and the least rewarding of all projects I've done on my truck.

They're made by a company called Pro's 1st Pick -- they're in Canada, eh?

augie

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Posts: 13
Reply with quote  #78 

hey marty, check out watson street werks led beehive taillights part # l84r for the end of frame. they are 2 3/8" od. they are dot approved and should supply better safety than the flush mounts you were considering. watson products are top quality.  i am considering those for chassis #5.

hipowernut

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Posts: 36
Reply with quote  #79 
I had actually previously decided on a Watson's product (L58RACL) Hot Slot flush mount lights.   I know about Watsons from street rod friends and yes - they make quality stuff.

I saw the beehive lights before too and just wan't sure if that style could pull it off on my car.  They might look great or way out of place - but they are DOT stamped, which is a plus.
PooK

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Posts: 206
Reply with quote  #80 
Lights are easy...
Here is a question, I'm trying to figure out the cooling duct work (not easy with the steering rack in the way!!) It struck me that the Radiator is the same size as the bottom of the chassis that use to carry the fuel tank. By laying the rad horizontal, cutting vents in the bottom front pan and adding a BIG A$$ fan on top I could blow through? Then in the event that the high HP motors needed still more cooling another Pre rad could be added to the nose....?
I know the off roaders and trophy trucks run a flat rad and so do the 914 guys when they do a V8 conversion....Thoughts???
PooK

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hipowernut

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Posts: 36
Reply with quote  #81 

As long as it doesn't overheat I'm game.  The Lincoln Mark VIII and Ford Taurus fans are widely used because of their flat pancake motors, built in plastic shrouds and high cfm (3800-4300) ratings.  I have the Mark VIII on my Camaro.  It is 21.5 x 18.5 x 5.  I think the Taurus unit is 23 x 15.5 x 5.5.  They both draw a lot of amps on startup so a relay may be needed.

PooK

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Reply with quote  #82 

The front of the car isn't that wide, and you couldn't jam that much air though this rad if you took the coils out...LOL! Remember our radiator is half size but twice as thick.
Maybe this one?



http://www.jegs.com/i/Be-Cool-Radiators/134/75031/10002/-1?parentProductId=1698459

hipowernut

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Posts: 36
Reply with quote  #83 
Sounds good to me, want me to have one sent to you?

Would you then just fab a huge duct to get air from the nose to the rad or simply count on just the fan pushing the air?
PooK

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Reply with quote  #84 
Let me work it through a little more, after weighing the pros and cons it may be better just to work out the shroud and keep the rad in the nose. I just like to think out loud sometimes
The interesting part was looking at all the ways its done on the internet. The old rule of thumb that the rad has to be in direct air flow at a certain angle doesn't hold up like it use to.....good to know.
PooK
badermatic

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Posts: 27
Reply with quote  #85 

Hmmm...I was wondering the same for cooling off the V-8. Would the small rad in the nose be sufficient? Here's hoping.... And in this spot, is it be better to push or pull the air thru the rad? I'm guessing a pull is better.

augie

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Posts: 13
Reply with quote  #86 

when given a choice , pulling air is preferred.

augie

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Reply with quote  #87 

hey marty ! all your ideas are good , but don't forget how small a target you are - motorcycle like as compared to your viper or camaro. i think the styling ques and safety aspect is better addressed on the bac mono. a third brake light up high and brake,turn and running lights out wide in order to keep others from running into or over us!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! looking cool is great , but not at the price of safety!

 

b-t

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Posts: 57
Reply with quote  #88 
Augie is correct.  You really feel exposed in these cars, so getting the best visibility possible is very important.  The LED's we were using with the post mount are available as flat round units that could be mounted on the ends of the main tubes, and they are super bright!  Check them out at http://www.harrisonspecialties.com (the 48 LED units).  The car is looking great, can't wait to see it all painted up with the body panels and engine, etc...

Also, Happy Thanksgiving!

BT
hipowernut

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Posts: 36
Reply with quote  #89 

Way to go Bill!!!  Didn't realize that they had flat mount 48 LED units - I think that's the ticket for me.

badermatic

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Posts: 27
Reply with quote  #90 

DOT approved?

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