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golftdibrad

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Reply with quote  #46 
May have a solution

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http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=105728

new axles method
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=91963

http://www.swayaway.com/OffRoadRacing.php  part #2020

What ya think?
PooK

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Reply with quote  #47 
Hey that's cool, didn't expect sway away to still be around. We use to use their torsion bars back in the day, good stuff!
golftdibrad

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Reply with quote  #48 
Axles found to correct the issue, ordered.

Soon...very soon.
b-t

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Reply with quote  #49 
I thought it was just me that was having a tough time getting the axles installed.  I had nothing to compare it to, so I thought they are all supposed to be a real PITA.  I don't know why it is so hard to find 914 CV boots with just 4 holes.  We had to get new axles (the ones we had originally were mismatched), and then new CV joints since we thought the used ones might not last.  I am really surprised the Tangerine ones went bad so quick.  Was it from too much angle, or some other load?
BT
golftdibrad

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Reply with quote  #50 
I'm not sure, but it failed.  Maybe too much angle.  Not going to find out with the other 3; I'me sure they would all go quickly with full power being transmitted.  I'm close to a grand into putting proper 100mm cv's on it vs a part that is no longer available and never will be again.  The tangerine ones are modded t1 90mm cv's and are not made to take the angle of a stock 914, and this car has 'a little more' angle than a 914 from what I'm told. 

EMPI 100mm highstrenth off road racing cv's 200
EMPI 20.25 inch shafts 200
outboard aero/compact cv boots 100
new boots/bolts/washers/grease 50
modded 914 output flanges 80+80
skystic halfshafts to make outter stub shafts 80
modded skystice cv to take 100mm cv 150ish

golftdibrad

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Reply with quote  #51 

So I got my new axles.



shinny.  I went to put them together and the place sent me load washers for freaking 90mm cv's.  In the pounding i messed up some hardware.  and they didnt send me enough hardware.  I am miffed.  I used standard lock washers for now and thank god driving vw's for years yielded just enough bolts to make this happen.  Even if they were the newer torque to yield kind. 



Took way too long and lots of cursing and hammering later but they are in.  I should have run a tap through the holes first.

So.... first drive.  Fired right up, shifter was aligned, time to do this.  It still needs tuning/balancing but it is WAY stronger.  Face melting stronger.  After a few spins around the block I parked it to check for bolts/leaks/etc.  And to set up the display to read the head temp sensor. 

I then refired it and it started pinging on one cylinder REALLY bad, like i could not even touch the throttle. 

Today i took it for a spin to see if it still did it, and it seems better, but still a light ping at high rpm.  I'll back the timing off a bit.  Its really quick now!

Went to the Ludachris concert last night, fo free.  Worked hard and played hard. 

b-t

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Reply with quote  #52 

Get that thing back on the road bro!  I noticed recently that RCR has caught up in the instrumentation and is copying your use of the Koso unit, although their website is still quoting the use of the Vapor instrumentation.  My bet is that they are using the cheaper Koso units that are not as large for the tach, but still nice units.  Glad you had fun at the concert!

golftdibrad

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Reply with quote  #53 
b-t, I like the koso unit because of the analog like tach, my only 2 gripes would be that the 10k range is too much for most cars and its not easily rotated so that redline is near the 12 o'clock position.  Overall its a fantastic compromise unit though.
golftdibrad

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Reply with quote  #54 


ordering the jet kit and colder plugs tomorrow....
b-t

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Reply with quote  #55 
Yes, an analog tach is the best.  My S2000 has a digital sweep tach, and I am not too fond of it.  Glad you got the engine back in and operational.  I hope you have a good summer of fun in the green machine!

BT
golftdibrad

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Reply with quote  #56 
Guys i need some help, I'm drawing a blank on how to make a throttle stop.  I have significant manufacturing capability, and would like a no welding on frame solution.  Any ideas would help. 





Thanks,
-Brad
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Reply with quote  #57 
How about drilling a horizontal hole in the green upright and installing a 3/8" bolt ,as a stud ,that will extend behind throttle arm and act as a stop. Just 1 idea.

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golftdibrad

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Reply with quote  #58 
Thanks for the suggestion, I'm working on something similar to what pook suggested now actually.
golftdibrad

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Reply with quote  #59 
Got alot done today.  First up, the koso temp sensor died from what i expect were out of its range.  So i found another thermistor that had the same curve (i measured using the one I still had) that had a higher max temp.  I took this guy (0.80 each at digikey, 6141019-nd) and stuck in in a drilled out Porsche head temp sensor and jb welded it in there.  FYI, jb weld is a electrical insulator, and reasonably good thermal conductor. 



Result is that this thing is near impossible to install.  I managed by modding a 1/2 wrench. 

Next was the throttle stop solution and new, hopefully stiffer, throttle pedal. 




Also readjusted the action and stuff.

Put in my NGK's that are a few ranges colder than the ones that were in there. 

Next I changed jets and air jets. went to 145 and 190 from 135 and 175.

Drove the car, still seems a little lean in the midrange, (lots of poping and what not off throttle, BUT less of it than before) but it seems WAY happier, and more power from the but dyno.  Now its very cool out today (70) but no pinging, head temps were lower (never saw past 300) so these are all good things.  I know that I'll have to stay on top of the tuning with this thing. 

About ready to put the nose back on and declare it 'done'.  For now at least.

-Brad
golftdibrad

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Reply with quote  #60 
Moving along.....  for those not in the know the motor was out and inn again recently..... Looking like I may be ok to go.


New head temp will confrim that the stock FI location is close to head temp.....



New tail lights that will, um, work. 
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