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b-t

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Reply with quote  #31 
It doesn't surprise me that the new jugs are the same os the old ones.  They generally only change jugs in L.A.  Nyuck Nyuck!  Anyway, thinking ahead, are the head studs threaded down far enough to clamp on shorter jugs?  If not maybe the same machine shop can turn some thread on them.  I guess worst case is that you could put some washers / spacers under the nuts to get a good seal.

BT
golftdibrad

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Reply with quote  #32 
Might be cam timing.  went home and cc'd the heads and pistons, cr calculator syas i cuould be right at 7.8:1
b-t

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Reply with quote  #33 
The cam gear we used is adjustable for timing.  I am pretty sure Danny said he had to grind the bolt heads for the cam gear down a little to clear the oil pump or something.  The cam gear was purchased from SCAT.

BT
golftdibrad

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Reply with quote  #34 
stupid vw motors cant have the timing checked without splitting the case.  Guess what I get to do this weekend? 
PooK

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Reply with quote  #35 
I don't remember the gear being adjustable. That would require the bolt holes in the gear to be slotted. The oe cam and gear are riveted together and replacing the gear or the cam means bolts, they always get the heads ground down so they don't hit the oil pump....very common.
If it was you should be able to see this by removing the oilpump, may also be able to see the physical match to the crank gear, its just a couple of dots that align at TDC.
b-t

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Reply with quote  #36 
Don't split the case!  I would check the cam gear like Danny says by removing the oil puimp and see if it aligns.  I am 80% sure we bought a slotted adjustable cam gear, but I could be wrong on that.
BT
PooK

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Reply with quote  #37 
You have to pull the pump to split anyways, the problem is the cam will usually jump out of its spot as you separate the two halves....then you won't know if that was the problem in the first place.
golftdibrad

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Reply with quote  #38 
ok, I'll do that tonight
golftdibrad

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Reply with quote  #39 
So, update time.  Turns out that the deck is supossed to be less than .060".  Even with the large deck, static CR was 7.6:1.  A good fellow over on shoptalkfourms measured is stock jugs, and what ya know, mine were 2.2mm longer.  This also may have been throwing off something called valve geometry, and while I'm sure there is something to it its not where the power was, the power was missing from the big cam and high deck. 

SO, the plan is to shave 0.105" off the bottom of the jugs, brinigng deck to about .055".  Static cr of 9.8:1.  dynamic will be 7.8:1.  The stock 2.0l was 7.4:1.  I will run premium fuel.  If it becomes an issue, electronic timing.  If it cooks, so be it.  I'll either get new heads at that point (the likely failure point) or do a different engine. 

So, while its all apart I've been doing some other work.


30+ pounds of not useful things gone....

Now.... I need a 'glovebox'.  I have the old DIN blank from my golf....so this car will always have a lil dub in it.

trimmed up, not to seal those holes...



used some 3m spray glue, and its laminated.  Light and locost.  Little message there too



Big enough for a fish.



With that amp out the way I can properly mount the MSD box.
[commercial voice]MSD stands for [I]MULTIPLE    SPARK    DISCHARGE[/B][\commercial voice]





poking around the rear.... look what I find.




would anyone care to venture what type of fluid that carries?


The parking brake has me stumped.  Once its back on the road I'll figure something out.

With some luck, motor goes back together Saturday.  Maybe in Sunday. 

-Brad
b-t

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Reply with quote  #40 
30 pounds uf useless stuff?  What?  Maybe I can buy it from you for my daughter's car.  I know what the hose carries, and it isn't radiator fluid!  Glad to hear you didn't crack the case open.  More compression, more power, sonds like fun!

BT
golftdibrad

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Reply with quote  #41 
Thats ok, might go in the golf.  Might still have to crack the case.  Pops is going to give me a second opinion on the cam timing, but I think its correct. 
golftdibrad

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Reply with quote  #42 
Been away a lot for work, so progress has been sporadic.  I got the juts cut at the base to bump the compression and reduce deck height.  was aiming for 0.050" and 9.5:1, got about 0.038" and 10.2:1.  Decision was made to roll with it. 
The engine went together pretty smoothly, but at one point i forgot a piston circlip, whoops.  I had to pull that jug to fix it, but the sealant was still tacky so I put some more and rolled out.  The tins fit the more stock width engine way better, but I did have to trim one just a little. 



Complete engine ready to be stabbed!



My god dont forget this!

So being a real smart guy, when pulling it the bolts for the mounts were a royal PITA to back up with a wrench, so I tack welded them in.  The engine mount has to be clearanced to fit the now fixed in space bolts. 



Nothing an cutoff wheel and a dremel cant do. 

I got it all back together and started it.  The power connections have always been crap, and it was having trouble spinning it over.  Yesterday on the way home I also had an epiphany; i never kicked the clutch to center things up.  So I loosened all the bolts, kicked the clutch and now it has plenty of ommph.  At some point I stripped the hole in the block for the starter too so I had to back it up with a thin nut and through bolt. 

Today I got it running better, starting by itself, and the timing set.  The carbs need to be rebalanced and the idle tuned, but it runs, revs free, and sounds MEAN.  No pinging yet either free revving it hard. 

I was hoping to be driving today, but the axles are still giving me hell.  the 100mm cv's I got are too thick for the 914 axle.  They are EMPI high strength high flex units. (E98-5084-B)  They are too thick to put the circlip on.  So I need regular units if they are thinner, or maybe a different axle shaft?  Suggestions welcome.  Good news is the aero CV boots clears the shock even at full droop, something even the 914 setup did not do. 

So, I'm very close.  Just need to get the axle problem solved for good and I'll be driving again.  I could put the old setup in, but seems kinda pointless to undo what I've done so far. 

-Brad
PooK

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Reply with quote  #43 
Under the cv is there a spacer washer? Slightly concave...goes on the axle first then the cv goes on.
If so dump it and install the sir clip
PooK
golftdibrad

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Reply with quote  #44 
It was never there. 
PooK

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Reply with quote  #45 
Usually isn't just hoping that was the cause.
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